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www.maxpages.com/baltic2 Summer is an excellent time of the year to visit the Baltic area by sea and since I had to be in England to attend a wedding, the Noordam was the most logical ship to catch to fit my schedule. Inasmuch as the ship is about to be chartered out as the Thomson Celebration to ply the Mediterranean, it was a good chance to experience it before it changed hands. As it turned out, the ship was very pleasant not only as to its operation but the fact that the weather fully cooperated once we left rainy Copenhagen and summer temperatures became the norm. I had been warned that the Noordam was getting old, that it had a severe vibration (it was definitely there and it did really bother a lot of passengers although it did not adversely affect me in any way) and that it lacked the amenities of the newest ships. These shortcomings did not seem to be of significance and the cruise experience was delightful at least for me. I flew from London, England to Copenhagen, Denmark one day early to enjoy the city but the rain put a bit of a damper on that. Nontheless, the flavor of being in this Baltic city was there and enjoyable. Thursday, 22 July. The next morning was a bit better and a walking tour of the Stroget and the main portions of the capital city filled the morning hours. Boarding the ship at noon was not as easy as it should have been, however. The ship's ticket clearly stated departure from the Langelinie Pier but when the taxi arrived there, no Noordam could be found. Personnel at the pier could not inform the driver and so we started north to check the other pier areas. Finally, the vessel was found at Freeport and embarkation proceeded easily. The ship's purser would not appologize or even explain why the ship was not at the pier specified in the contract but that is the way with cruise lines. They pretty much do what they want to do even if it inconveniences the very passenger they profess to serve so diligently. Friday, 23 July at sea. As usual, the first day at sea is to be especially welcomed as not only is this the day to explore the ship and its activities but to rest up just a bit from the travel required to get to the departure port. The Noordam is easy enough to figure out and two decks, the sixth and ninth, are the focus points of the ship from the passenger's point of interest. The number and type of onboard activities are what you would normally expect but the two pools were way too small to be effective. The aft part of the deck arrangement in the old fashioned terraced way is attractive and emminently useful. Too bad the new ships seem largely to have given up on this design and incorporated a glassed-in stern. Saturday, 24 July. Tallinn,Estonia is an attractive port with a nearby older part of the city and a lot of large ferry traffic. The ship moored at the passenger terminal which is one-half mile northeast of the Great Coastal Gate and Fat Margaret's Tower which marks the northern extent of the excellent walls surrounding the old town. Walking in the narrow roads to the Town Hall Square and up to the Toompea Castle Square and Tall Hermann's Tower is enjoyable and photo viewing points abound. Tallinn has excellent ferry connections with Stockholm and Helsinki and profits from a brisk sea trade with these Baltic neighbors. Sunday/Monday, 25/26 July. St. Petersburg, Russia, the hero city of World War II, has been renovated and revitalized and is now a very popular tourist destination. The ship moored quite a distance from the city center but not more than a thirty minute bus ride. Some passengers opted to visit Moscow but that entailed a very long ride that only the most determined attempted. Most passengers took shore excursions around the city and out to Petrodvorets some fifteen miles to the east. I had been here a few times before and consider the city to be in its best shape for decades. I particularly liked the Cossack and folkloric show put on at the St. Petersburg Hotel. It was here, as we sauntered back to the buses, that a young man almost lifted my camera from its carrying case. Fortunately, I had it attached to the case and he was unsuccessful but not until I collared him with malice aforethought. One hears many stories of thieves in Russian cities and I guess there is a lot of truth to them. St. Petersburg is the home to 300 bridges and can claim the most of any city on earth. The sailaway also emphasized the importance of sea transportation as ship traffic was constant during our two days in port. The exit channel is quite long and relatively narrow along its entire length. Soon the important naval base of Kronshtadt appears on our starboard side and permits a good look at this heretofore off limits area. Tuesday, 27 July. Helsinki, Finland is a thriving and vibrant port city and the nation's capital. The ship moored at the Munkkisaari Pier about 1.5 miles southsouthwest of the city center. A city bus departs from this area and connection to the sightseeing T3 tram is easy for a good cross-section of the city. The Church of the Rock (Temppeliaukio) is on the T3 route as is the Senate Square and Market Square, the three top attractions for first time visitors. The weather was excellent and I chose to take an excursion boat to the world's second largest sea fortress (Gibraltar is the first) Suomenlinna which is about a thirty minute ferry ride to the southeast of Market Square. The fortress is composed of a few small connected islands and is a World Heritage Site. It is great for strolling, watching the huge hares in the park and perhaps visiting one of its six museums. Helsinki (map) is built on a peninsula which is connected by bridge and ferry to nearby islands. I decided to walk back to the ship from the Esplanade as one needs the exercise occasionally. In truth, it is to get a better apetite to consume all those dinner and dessert offerings. Wednesday, 28 July. Stockholm, Sweden is built on a series of islands and peninsulas which provide good views from much of the city (map). The ship was moored at Masthamnen about one mile southeast of the old city center of Gamla Stan which made walking into town both feasible and interesting. The old center is where the Royal Palace is located along with the Parliament House and a number of museums. The changing of the guard with horsemen parading down the main streets occured while I was there and it provided some good photo opportunities. The holiday crowds and boat traffic along Old Town presented a restful scene with enough constant activity to make life interesting. The 1800 departure east out of Stockholm revealed island after island for hours until the ship reached the Baltic proper at Sandhamn just before 2200. The evening was balmy, with a full moon, and the small boats plying the waterway made for a pleasant sailaway. Thursday, 29 July. Visby, Sweden is located on the western shore of Gotland, the largest island in the Baltic. The ship anchored off the Visby Harbor and passengers were taken into the small harbor by tenders. The port is an excellent example of a small Baltic town with all the old remnants of ruins and walls set amid a thriving settlement adorned with flowers and plants. It is made for walking with a bit of a climb up to the high terrace behind the town. Friday, 30 July. Warnemunde, Germany is a small seaside resort and home to small boats. It has a good beach not far from where the ship docks and at the height of the season is very alive with vacationers. I tried swimming in the cold water and did manage to immerse myself momentarily but as I looked around I could see everyone only up to their waist. I think one would court hypothermia after five to ten minutes or at least it seemed that way. Incidentally, the beach goers consider a swim suit optional for the upper reaches and in some cases the choice is the full monty. The large port of Rostock is only ten miles south of Warnemunde and is easily accessed by a fast electric train. I chose to take an excursion boat to Rostock via the Warnow River and found it very pleasant with a warm summer sun. The city is neat and convenient for a little sightseeing such as the Kropeliner City Gate and the University Plaza and a bit of shopping on the Kropeliner Strasse. A number of passengers opted to visit Berlin this day although they had to incur over two hours of travel each way. Invariably, they said they enjoyed the day visit to the nation's capital. Saturday, 31 July at sea. Curiously, the day was spent circumnavigating the island of Zealand via the Store (Great) Belt and the Kattegat in a clockwise direction presumably to kill time. I assume this is a replacement for a previously scheduled stop in Arhus, Denmark which no longer is visited. About the only real sight during the day was the passing of the large Stor Strommen Bridge connecting Zealand with the mainland to the west. Sunday, 1 August Copenhagen, Denmark debarkation 0930. The ship arrived in port very early and passengers could start leaving the ship about 0730. I stayed an extra day in Copenhagen and spent it on one of the city's free bicycles that offered a combination of good exercise and easy transportation. Fortunately, the city is full of bicycle lanes and drivers are used to the hordes of bikes in traffic. I had been in Copenhagen many times so I mostly enjoyed the people at their leisure such as the bathers along a riverside pool and strollers in the squares and parks. The Oresund Bridge is a new (2000), ten-mile bridge and tunnel link connecting Copenhagen with Malmo, Sweden to the east. This construction achievement has not yet produced the economic returns expected of it but it has certainly doubled the population to four million who are within an hour's travel to Copenhagen. Even the port is now known as the Copenhagen-Malmo Port. Kastrup Airport is located at the western origin of the bridge and air and sea connections could not be easier. Great expectations are being placed on the rapid economic growth of this Oresund area. Monday, 2 August. I departed very early from Kastrup airport to London and Chicago. Incidentally, Kastrup was just awarded recognition as the most efficient airport in Europe but I could not even figure which line was which in the queues for SAS counters. Even the attendants sent passengers to the wrong lines. So much for efficiency. The overall trip was a definite plus with the cruise very enjoyable. The ports were invariably interesting and easy to negotiate especially on foot. The fellow passengers were jolly and made the passage a distinct pleasure. Ship's Log (nautical miles): Copenhagen/Tallinn - 511; Tallinn/St. Petersburg - 156; St. Petersburg/Helsinki - 147; Helsinki/Stockholm - 255; Stockholm/Visby - 201; Visby/Warnemunde - 305; Warnemunde/Copenhagen - 306; Total - 1,883 nm Travel Articles by the Author. Note: Click here to see a collection of photos to illustrate this article. Copyright 2004. All Rights Reserved.
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